Dulzor, género e identidad en el arte culinario de Japón

This paper examines confectionary as a pervasive, though relatively little discussed, aspect of contemporary and historical Japanese culinary culture. Sweets in their contemporary form trace their origins to courtly cuisine that entered Japanese food culture via contact with Portuguese traders in th...

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Détails bibliographiques
Auteur principal: Holtzman, Jon
Format: Online
Langue:espagnol
Éditeur: El Colegio de México 2015
Sujets:
Accès en ligne:https://estudiosdeasiayafrica.colmex.mx/index.php/eaa/article/view/2045
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Estudios de Asia y África

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author Holtzman, Jon
author_facet Holtzman, Jon
author_sort Holtzman, Jon
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description This paper examines confectionary as a pervasive, though relatively little discussed, aspect of contemporary and historical Japanese culinary culture. Sweets in their contemporary form trace their origins to courtly cuisine that entered Japanese food culture via contact with Portuguese traders in the 16th century. Certain types of sweets were present prior to this period, which appear to be at least in part influenced by contact with Chinese culture, though these were quite different from those that followed Portuguese contact. Sweets developed in this time period are viewed as intrinsically Japanese (wagashi) while ones that entered after the Meiji Reformation of the mid-19th century, and with greater intensity since World War II, are marked as European sweets (yogashi). Archetypal wagashi are intricately handcrafted sweets made exclusively of local Japanese ingredients, shaped in visually beautiful forms that vary in form in order to be in tune with the changing seasons, and used most importantly in the tea ceremony. Western confectionary includes European cakes, pastries, and chocolate. These different types of sweets may be placed in a range of different categories, varying according to contrasting distinctions such as Japanese versus foreign and expensive/high class sweets versus cheaper, more everyday varieties. These distinctions are not completely exclusive, however, and other factors can also play a role in defining the uses and meanings of particular types of sweets. The many uses of sweets are to a great extent governed by the varying meanings of different sweets that are largely shared by the Japanese but also differ on account of factors such as age, gender, wealth, and self-positioning in regard to a traditionalist or modernist stance. Sweets, both “Japanese” and “European”, have become important for daily consumption and for ritualized occasions. Sweets are, moreover, the quintessential gift in a culture in which gift-giving is a fundamental component of social relations, particularly the pervasive practice of giving omiyage—gifts representing a place to which one has travelled. In this practice, sweets feature as the most common and important gift. Sweets are used to mark local identities and are also highly gendered, with confectionary traditionally being the purview of women and children, although this has been reworked in intriguing ways in contemporary Japan. The most vivid example of gift-giving that is also gendered is provided by the practice carried out on the adopted holiday of Valentine’s Day. On this day, chocolate is given exclusively by women to men, sometimes as a social requirement (giri choco, obligation chocolate) to male co-workers and acquaintances as well as to one’s actual romantic interest (honmei choco, “true chocolate”). Through an exploration of a variety of sweets and their wide-ranging uses and meanings in local identities, gift exchange and gender relations, the paper aims not only to throw light on this key aspect of Japanese culinary culture, but also to use sweets as a window into broader aspects of Japanese life.
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journal Estudios de Asia y África
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publishDate 2015
publisher El Colegio de México
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Terms_governing_use_and_reproduction_note Derechos de autor 2015 Estudios de Asia y África
data_source_entry/ISSN Estudios de Asia y África; Vol. 50, No. 3 (158), September-December, 2015; 701 - 720
Estudios de Asia y África; Vol. 50, núm. 3 (158), septiembre-diciembre, 2015; 701 - 720
2448-654X
0185-0164
spelling oai:oai.estudiosdeasiayafrica.colmex.mx:article-20452025-09-01T18:19:09Z Sweetness, Gender, and Identity in Japanese Culinary Culture Dulzor, género e identidad en el arte culinario de Japón Holtzman, Jon Japan sweets history gender identity Japón dulces historia género identidad This paper examines confectionary as a pervasive, though relatively little discussed, aspect of contemporary and historical Japanese culinary culture. Sweets in their contemporary form trace their origins to courtly cuisine that entered Japanese food culture via contact with Portuguese traders in the 16th century. Certain types of sweets were present prior to this period, which appear to be at least in part influenced by contact with Chinese culture, though these were quite different from those that followed Portuguese contact. Sweets developed in this time period are viewed as intrinsically Japanese (wagashi) while ones that entered after the Meiji Reformation of the mid-19th century, and with greater intensity since World War II, are marked as European sweets (yogashi). Archetypal wagashi are intricately handcrafted sweets made exclusively of local Japanese ingredients, shaped in visually beautiful forms that vary in form in order to be in tune with the changing seasons, and used most importantly in the tea ceremony. Western confectionary includes European cakes, pastries, and chocolate. These different types of sweets may be placed in a range of different categories, varying according to contrasting distinctions such as Japanese versus foreign and expensive/high class sweets versus cheaper, more everyday varieties. These distinctions are not completely exclusive, however, and other factors can also play a role in defining the uses and meanings of particular types of sweets. The many uses of sweets are to a great extent governed by the varying meanings of different sweets that are largely shared by the Japanese but also differ on account of factors such as age, gender, wealth, and self-positioning in regard to a traditionalist or modernist stance. Sweets, both “Japanese” and “European”, have become important for daily consumption and for ritualized occasions. Sweets are, moreover, the quintessential gift in a culture in which gift-giving is a fundamental component of social relations, particularly the pervasive practice of giving omiyage—gifts representing a place to which one has travelled. In this practice, sweets feature as the most common and important gift. Sweets are used to mark local identities and are also highly gendered, with confectionary traditionally being the purview of women and children, although this has been reworked in intriguing ways in contemporary Japan. The most vivid example of gift-giving that is also gendered is provided by the practice carried out on the adopted holiday of Valentine’s Day. On this day, chocolate is given exclusively by women to men, sometimes as a social requirement (giri choco, obligation chocolate) to male co-workers and acquaintances as well as to one’s actual romantic interest (honmei choco, “true chocolate”). Through an exploration of a variety of sweets and their wide-ranging uses and meanings in local identities, gift exchange and gender relations, the paper aims not only to throw light on this key aspect of Japanese culinary culture, but also to use sweets as a window into broader aspects of Japanese life. Este trabajo examina los productos de la confitería como un aspecto extendido, aunque relativamente poco discutido, de la cultura culinaria japonesa contemporánea e histórica. Los dulces en su forma contemporánea tienen sus orígenes en la cocina cortesana que penetró en la cultura de la comida japonesa a través del contacto con los comerciantes portugueses en el siglo XVI. Ciertos tipos de dulces estaban presentes antes de este periodo, los cuales parece que, al menos en parte, provinieron del contacto con la cultura china, aunque fueron muy diferentes de aquellos que surgieron de la relación con los portugueses. Los dulces de este periodo son vistos como intrínsecamente japoneses (wagashi), mientras que los que entraron después de la Restauración Meiji de mediados del siglo XIX, y con mayor intensidad desde la Segunda Guerra Mundial, son considerados dulces europeos (yogashi). Los wagashi típicos son dulces elaborados minuciosamente a mano y hechos exclusivamente con ingredientes japoneses locales, modelados en formas visualmente hermosas que varían para estar acordes con los cambios estacionales, y que son consumidos principalmente en la ceremonia del té. Los dulces de tipo occidental incluyen pasteles europeos, pastelillos y chocolates. Estos diferentes tipos de dulces pueden categorizarse de acuerdo con distinciones contrastantes, tales como dulces japoneses frente a extranjeros y caros, de alta cocina frente a los más baratos, además de las variedades cotidianas. Sin embargo, estas distinciones no son las únicas, pues otros factores pueden influir en la definición de los usos y los significados de tipos particulares de dulces. Los muchos y variados usos de los dulces están en gran medida prescritos por los diversos significados, comunes a todo japonés, de diferentes dulces; significados que también difieren en función de factores como la edad, el género, la riqueza y el autoposicionamiento respecto a una postura tradicionalista o modernista. Los dulces, tanto los “japoneses” como los “europeos”, se han vuelto importantes para el consumo cotidiano y para el consumo en ocasiones ritualizadas. Más aún, los dulces son el regalo por excelencia en una cultura en la que el obsequio es un componente fundamental de las relaciones sociales; particularmente, la práctica extendida de obsequiar omiyage, objetos representativos de un lugar al que se ha viajado. En esta práctica, los dulces figuran como el regalo más común e importante. Los dulces son utilizados para marcar las identidades locales y tienen además una alta carga genérica, pues tradicionalmente corresponden al ámbito de las mujeres y los niños, aunque esto ha sido reformulado de maneras interesantes en el Japón contemporáneo. El más vívido ejemplo de entrega de obsequios con una carga de género es la celebración adoptada del Día de San Valentín, en el que las mujeres dan chocolates a los hombres, a veces como una exigencia social (giri choco, “chocolate de obligación”) a colegas y conocidos hombres, y también a aquel por quien se tiene un interés romántico (honmei choco, “chocolate verdadero”). A través de la exploración de una variedad de dulces y sus extensos usos y significados en las identidades locales, en el intercambio de obsequios y en las relaciones de género, este trabajo pretende no sólo arrojar luz sobre este aspecto clave de la cultura culinaria japonesa, sino además ver en los dulces una ventana a aspectos más amplios de la vida japonesa. El Colegio de México 2015-09-01 info:eu-repo/semantics/article info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersion application/pdf application/xml https://estudiosdeasiayafrica.colmex.mx/index.php/eaa/article/view/2045 10.24201/eaa.v50i3.2045 Estudios de Asia y África; Vol. 50, No. 3 (158), September-December, 2015; 701 - 720 Estudios de Asia y África; Vol. 50, núm. 3 (158), septiembre-diciembre, 2015; 701 - 720 2448-654X 0185-0164 spa https://estudiosdeasiayafrica.colmex.mx/index.php/eaa/article/view/2045/2045 https://estudiosdeasiayafrica.colmex.mx/index.php/eaa/article/view/2045/2279 Derechos de autor 2015 Estudios de Asia y África
spellingShingle Japan
sweets
history
gender
identity
Japón
dulces
historia
género
identidad
Holtzman, Jon
Dulzor, género e identidad en el arte culinario de Japón
title Dulzor, género e identidad en el arte culinario de Japón
title_alt Sweetness, Gender, and Identity in Japanese Culinary Culture
title_full Dulzor, género e identidad en el arte culinario de Japón
title_fullStr Dulzor, género e identidad en el arte culinario de Japón
title_full_unstemmed Dulzor, género e identidad en el arte culinario de Japón
title_short Dulzor, género e identidad en el arte culinario de Japón
title_sort dulzor genero e identidad en el arte culinario de japon
topic Japan
sweets
history
gender
identity
Japón
dulces
historia
género
identidad
topic_facet Japan
sweets
history
gender
identity
Japón
dulces
historia
género
identidad
url https://estudiosdeasiayafrica.colmex.mx/index.php/eaa/article/view/2045
work_keys_str_mv AT holtzmanjon sweetnessgenderandidentityinjapaneseculinaryculture
AT holtzmanjon dulzorgeneroeidentidadenelarteculinariodejapon